Mombasa and the south coast marine parks

The busiest of Kenya’s marine parks is close to Mombasa itself, 10sq km of National park are enclosed in the 200 sq km of the Mombasa Marine National Reserve, the protected reserve area lies just off the coast and extends from the Mtwapa creek down to Likoni. The coast is well developed and tourists can access the park with glass-bottomed boats or go snorkelling and diving from hotels along Nyali, Shanzu and Bamburi beaches. The park protects a variety of marine systems including hanging reefs and large corals.

Heading south from Mombasa island, cross the Likoni ferry (allow plenty of time here – sometimes there’s a long queue) and keep on the A14 to Kidimu, follow the signs left to Shimoni. Historically Shimoni was the headquarters of the Imperial British East Africa Company and there are caves nearby which are reputed to have held slaves ready for transportation. Now the headquarters of the Mpunguti Marine National Reserve and Kisite Marine National Park, Shimoni is a world famous base for divers and game fishermen.

Across the narrow channel from Shimoni is Wasini Island, 17 sq km of protected mangrove swamps and coral stone. Two villages on the island house about 1500 inhabitants, mostly fishermen and craftsmen making knick-knacks for the tourist trade. Charlie Claw’s restaurant and bar is famous for massive seafood lunches, enormous crabs steamed in ginger and served on wooden platters washed down with a cold beer. There are loungers overlooking the channel and a small pool.

Offshore the reefs are named and graded according to difficulty and splendour. Coral gardens reef is accessible to all grades of diver and snorkelling is good at low tide. Nicknamed the pink reef after the soft corals of which it is made and inhabited by masses of brightly coloured angelfish, butterfly fish, anthias and damselfish as well as ribbon eels and many species of crustaceans and molluscs. Turtles and sharks swim over the reefs and dolphins often follow the dhows carrying tourists around the marine park.

Around Kisite island are several dive sites, the colourful fish here are notoriously tame, especially the parrotfish, visitors often see huge lobsters, surgeonfish, snappers and leopard moray eels hiding in large holes in the coral. The reserves are important breeding grounds for the rare coconut crab; the world’s largest species of crab eats mainly fruit including coconuts, which its strong claws can break open. The burrows made by these amazing blue and orange creatures can be seen on both Wasini and Kisite islands.

There is no accommodation on the islands but in Shimoni Betty’s camp near to the jetty has rooms and tents for hire at reasonable rates and a swimming pool and bar overlooking the Wasini channel. A bit more upmarket, but in need of a facelift, the Shimoni Reef Lodge has a good restaurant and bar, accommodation is in bungalows dotted around well kept gardens along the shoreline, there is a large swimming pool and reception area with a small library, the hotel can organise diving trips, walking trails, birdwatching and fishing. Kenya Wildlife Service has seven bandas for rent near to the village, linen is provided but guests must bring their own firewood and drinking water, camping is allowed in the same area.

The Pemba Channel Fishing Club is justly famous for being the best place for game fishing in the whole of Africa, enormous marlin, sailfish, shark and tuna are among the regular catches. The Pemba Channel Lodge, attached to the fishing club, has six luxury cottages with verandas, a large swimming pool and an excellent restaurant and bas, prices are high.

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