Lake Naivasha

This is the largest Rift Valley lake, easily accessible from Nairobi, just about an hour and a half drive or a short flight, The Nairobi - Kisumu train stops at Naivasha but check out the days and times of this service, Kenya railways are notoriously unpredictable and you probably won’t see much on the 4 hour trip since the service runs in the evening.

The 177 sq km of Lake Naivasha is the second largest and the highest of all the Rift Valley lakes, the main Elsa gate is at the southern end, there are two other gates at OlKaria and Narasha.

Volcanic activity in the Rift Valley is evident at Crescent Island near the eastern shore, the lake is at its deepest here in the submerged crater. Giraffe, zebra, antelopes and gazelles graze on the island among a myriad of birds. Entrance to the sanctuary is payable locally and while it is possible to drive onto the island the locals will be happy to take you by boat, check the fares both ways before setting off.

Ornithologists flock to Naivasha for a glimpse of the fish-eating birds taking advantage of the healthy fish population, fish eagles, cormorants (great and long tailed), herons and kingfishers are abundant and the area has a large lovebird population. Around the lake, mammals graze including reedbuck, waterbuck, steenbok, impala, duiker and gazelle. Hippo laze around in the water during the day and emerge at dusk to graze on the shores. From Kongoni on the western shore there is access to Crater Lake Game Sanctuary, this is a privately owned area with good game viewing and walking – there is a path all around the rim of the crater from which you can look down to the alkaline water filled crater and the colourful flamingos which feed on the blue-green algae. There is a good campsite here too.

It was close to Naivasha’s southern shore that Joy Adamson lived, her house ‘Elsamere’ is now a conservation and wildlife education centre open to visitors in the afternoons, there is a film show of Adamson’s work, and pictures of the lioness Elsa, the inspiration for the film ‘Born Free’. You can have afternoon tea on the lawn and overnight stays are sometimes possible.

Accommodation of all grades is plentiful, very reasonable rates are available at a handful of campsites where you can rent a banda or bring your own gear. There are some upper end lodges with swimming pools and beautifully manicured grounds. The splendid colonial surroundings of the Lake Naivasha Country Club is a perfect setting for Sunday lunch on the lawn with stunning views over the lake. The club was originally the Kenya terminal of the flying boat service between England and South Africa; passengers came ashore at the club and were taken by road on to Nairobi. A diversion from bird and game watching might be a game of golf at the Great Rift Valley Lodge and Golf Resort, a par 72 course with fabulous views down to the lake, there is a restaurant and bar and 30 guest rooms.

Being close to Nairobi, Lake Naivasha is a favourite weekend getaway destination and can get quite crowded, midweek is quieter, Low season rates from March to May are much lower than high but this is the rainy season and transport may be more difficult because of the condition of the roads.

Click here to view all of our Kenya safari holidays