Nxai Pan National Park

Back then, the former Zambezi-Limpopo River meandered through, forming a ridge where the water from the river essentially backed up on itself to form the huge lake, some 70,000-85,000 square kilometers in size. The Nxai Pan and the other interconnecting Pans—a place where water can collect, but nearly always leaves behind salt films after evaporation—have all but turned to baked earth during the dry season.

Dr. David Livingstone even passed this way on his explorations through central Africa. Before becoming a critical trade route later in the 19th century, this route helped Livingstone become the first outsider to discover Victoria Falls (a.k.a. Mosi-oa-Tunya or the Smoke that Thunders), naming it after Queen Victoria. The Kgama Kgama Pan had water back then and kept many a traveler quenched and replenished for the ensuing journey across the Kalahari. Today, however, thirsty travelers better bring their own water as many lakes of yesteryear have completely disappeared from Botswana.

The Nxai Pan National Park in Botswana was first certified in 1970, where 1,676 square kilometers was preserved for a game reserve. Today, however, the park has National Park status, and together with the Makgadikgadi National Park and Kudiakam Pan, the area protects over 7,500 square kilometers of land, vegetation, pans, and animals. The Nxai Pan section of the conglomerate is today 2,578 square kilometers, which also houses the Baines’ Baobabs. One of the many attractions here are the variety of animals and vegetation that sprout up each year after the rainy season.

The Nxai Pan National Park is located in north-central Botswana, well over 400 km from Gaborone and less than 170 km from Nata and 140 km from Maun, the fifth largest town in Botswana. Just north of the east-west Nata-Maun Road, you’ll fine Nxai Pan National Park just 300 km north, though when one talks of hundreds of kilometers in Africa they can mean hours, especially since the roads outside of Maun and Nata are dirt, sand and sometimes mud.

In Nxai Pan National Park, you’ll find many animals grouped up among the Mopane Woodland and Thorn trees. One of the best features of the Nxai Pan National Park—and what keeps all the animals coming here year after year—is the ginormous watering hole set among the plains. This makes animal viewing quite fun and rather easy, as you won’t have to search through your binoculars to simply see a passing tail or disappearing leg. Once the rains begin here, you’ll find plenty of animals and birds as Nxai Pan really starts to bloom earlier than other National Parks and Game Reserves.

The birds that visit the area are rather astounding. The trademark bird of Nxai Pan is the Korhaan (a.k.a. White-Quilled Bustard) whose squeak is noticeable even from your 4x4. Moreover, visitors can find many raptors, Kestrels and Goshawks that keep the place lively. The best land animals around are the springboks that populate the park in the hundreds. Furthermore, the giraffes often congregate into groups of 20-30 while the wildebeest, kudu, hartebeest, elands and predators, such as cheetahs, jackals, leopards, hyenas and Bat-eared Fox, remain in Nxai Pan for a long time even when the rains begin.

During these rains, the buffalo and elephant start to put on watersport shows, though these can be shortlived as migration takes them quickly away. You’ll find some of the most famous Baines’ Baobabs trees within the park too. Visitors need at least a few days to see what the Park has to offer. During the rainy season, when bird watching is best, the roads make driving slow. Expect your driver to take his time if you come then as the roads are mostly dirt and sand.

Because of its National Park status, Nxai Pan does not have accommodation within the park. Your best bet is to have your tour operator book you a stay at one of the close-by lodges at Makgadikgadi Pan. If you book with your tour operator in advance, you’ll find a camp stay within the park a memorable one. With a tailor-made safari, you can choose from three campsites—North Camp, South Camp and Baines’ Baobab—that offer rudimentary facilities. All the camps are unfenced, while the north camp keeps you among the elephants, the south camp keeps you nestled close to the trees.

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